Wilson F1 Indoor (HPS + Coco + Organics) – Full-Spectrum Cultivation Analysis

Wilson F1 Indoor (HPS + Coco + Organics) – Full-Spectrum Cultivation Analysis

Executive Summary

• Wilson F1 Genetics: Wilson F1 refers to the original seed line created by Masonic Smoker from (Banana OG × Papaya) × Tropicana Cookies – often called Wilson Zero, the F1 generation that launched the Wilson familymasonicseeds.comasonicseeds.co. It started as a clone-only keeper female and later became available in seeds (F2, F3) used for many crossesmasonicseeds.comasonicseeds.co. This balanced hybrid (≈50/50) shows vigorous growth and finishes fast (~6–7 weeks flowering)masonicseeds.comasonicseeds.co.

• Growth Traits: Wilson F1 is moderately easy and resilient, with medium height (≈2–5 feet indoor) and strong lateral branchingmasonicseeds.comasonicseeds.co. Internode spacing is moderate – not too tight, allowing dense bud clusters without excessive crowdingmasonicseeds.comasonicseeds.co. It responds extremely well to training (topping, LST, SCROG), quickly forming bushy canopies of multiple colasmasonicseeds.comasonicseeds.co. Expect a solid stretch in early flower (≈1.5–2× height gain) – manageable with super-cropping if neededapp.jointcommerce.comapp.jointcommerce.com.

• Phenotype Variability: Most Wilson phenos share a “fruit cocktail” terpene profile and rapid finish, but some lean toward the Tropicana Cookies side (showing purple-tinted sugar leavesmasonicseeds.co and slightly longer 7+ week bloom) while others lean Papaya/Banana (shorter, ultra-fruity, maybe finishing in 6 weeks). Nutrient needs are generally balanced, though extremely vigorous phenos may demand a bit more feed. All phenos are calcium-hungry during bud set (OG/Cookies heritage)masonicseeds.co. Notably, growers have reported occasional hermaphroditism in some Wilson hybrids if stressedmasonicseeds.comasonicseeds.co – so careful stress management and light control are important.

• HPS Lighting Effects: Under HPS lights (orange/red-heavy spectrum), Wilson tends to stretch a bit more and can run hotter. The infrared output of HPS raises leaf temperatures, boosting transpirationinspire.ag. This can increase uptake of water and calcium (since Ca moves with water flow), so ensure ample Ca is available to support fast growth. However, HPS’s low blue light means less stomatal signaling – you’ll likely need slightly cooler ambient temps (~75°F) to keep canopy happyinspire.ag. Watch for classic HPS issues: heat stress (leaf tacoing, edge burn), light burn on tops if too close, and potential VPD (vapor pressure deficit) mismatches if you don’t adjust humidity to the higher leaf temps. Good airflow and venting are critical to disperse HPS heat from the canopy.

• Coco Coir & Organic Feeding: Coco coir is a unique soilless medium – great air porosity and drainage, but it’s inert and has a high CEC that locks up Ca/Mg if not bufferedovergrow.com. Always use buffered coco (pre-charged with Ca/Mg) or buffer it yourself before planting to avoid early calcium deficiencesovergrow.comovergrow.com. In organic grows, coco behaves more like a “microbial canvas” – it holds moisture and microbes but contains no nutrients until you add organic matterdrgreenthumbs.com.au. Mix in amendments (compost, worm castings 5–10%, etc.) to introduce slow-release nutrients and beneficial biologydrgreenthumbs.com.au. Root oxygen is usually plentiful in coco (it naturally maintains ~30% air when moist), but overwatering can still drown roots or microbes – maintain a healthy wet/dry cycle. Also, microbial activity consumes oxygen, so avoid waterlogging, especially in containers with smaller volume. Using airy potting mixes (coco plus perlite/chunk) and fabric pots can ensure roots get O₂overgrow.comovergrow.com. Container size matters: organic coco growers often use larger pots than hydroponic coco to create a buffer of nutrients and microbial lifethcfarmer.com. A bigger volume allows a “living soil” effect in coco, whereas too small a pot can lead to faster dry-outs and nutrient depletion.

• Water Chemistry: Water is a make-or-break factor in organic coco. RO or very soft water has near-zero minerals – in coco that means you must provide calcium/magnesium via amendments (e.g. gypsum, dolomite) or risk deficienciesmasonicseeds.co. Soft/RO water also lacks buffering, so pH can swing more easily (coco with active microbes often trends acidic over time). Tap water provides calcium and bicarbonates which can stabilize pH, but excess hardness (high EC, lots of carbonates) can push pH too high and potentially lock out nutrients or leave mineral residues. A moderate approach is using filtered or dechlorinated tap water if it’s not extreme: e.g. ~100–200 ppm (0.2–0.4 EC) and pH ~7 is workable with a slight acid adjustment down to ~6.0. Always dechlorinate tap water for organics (let it sit 24+ hours or use carbon filters) to avoid killing your beneficial microbes. High chlorine/chloramine levels or very alkaline water can cause mysterious stalling of growth in organic systems (microbes go inactive). In short: know your water: if using RO, supplement Ca/Mg and monitor pH drift (coco + organic acids can drive pH low without some buffer)icmag.com; if using hard tap, consider mixing 50/50 with RO or adding a small dose of fulvic/humic acids to chelate minerals and keep pH in range.

• Organic Nutrient Timing: Organic inputs release nutrients slowly, so timing is everything. Wilson F1’s explosive stretch (~weeks 1–3 of bloom) means an early spike in demand. To prevent a “stretch crash” (plants running out of nutrients mid-stretch), plan to top-dress 1–2 weeks before major demand spikes. For example, many growers will do a significant bloom top-dress at flip (day 1 of 12/12) and another around week 3–4 of flowerapp.jointcommerce.com. This ensures that as the microbial community breaks down organics (often a 1–2 week lag for full availability), the nutrients come on tap right when buds are bulkingdrgreenthumbs.com.auapp.jointcommerce.com. In veg, you can amend coco with a balanced nutrient mix (e.g. 4-4-4 all-purpose) at transplant and again a few weeks later. Monitor plant cues with a grain of salt – in organics, leaf yellowing might mean the soil was depleted weeks ago. Use soil/medium testing or observation over time to anticipate needs since correction is not as instant as with hydro nutrients. When issues do arise, microbe teas and organic liquid feeds can provide a quicker boost: e.g. a compost tea with worm castings, or a fish/kelp emulsion can help correct deficiencies within days, whereas dry amendments might take weeks. Avoid overloading the coco with heavy amendments all at once – it can lead to hotspots that burn roots or microbial imbalances. It’s safer to feed lightly but more frequently (e.g. small topdress or teas every week or two) than to do one massive dosing.

• Irrigation & Dry-Back (Coco + Organics): Unlike pure hydroponic coco grows, you do not want daily heavy runoff in an organic coco systemthcfarmer.comthcfarmer.com. Frequent fertigation with runoff is great for salts, but in organics it washes away nutrients and microbes you’ve built up. Instead, aim to keep the coco consistently moist, not soaked, with minimal runoff. In practice, that means watering a bit less volume per event so that the medium retains most of the goodness. You can still water once daily in veg and possibly 2x in peak flower (if plants are large), but scale it to plant needs and container size – do not let coco bone-dry, and conversely avoid it sitting oversaturated for long periods. The ideal “dry-back” is when the top inch of medium starts to dry and the pot feels lighter, but not so dry that microbes go dormant. No-runoff watering requires good water quality (to prevent salt buildup) and careful feeding – if you do over-accumulate salts or amendments, a one-time flush without harsh chemicals can be done (e.g. flush with filtered water plus a mild enzyme or molasses to help carry away excess, then re-inoculate microbes). Common mistakes include overwatering young plants in coco (which can cause damping off just as in soil) and, later, letting coco dry out too much – which can kill off microbial populations and halt nutrient cycling. A plant suffering overwatering in coco shows drooping, swollen leaves and stagnant growth; a plant too dry will wilt and can develop nutrient deficiencies (as organics can’t mineralize in dry substrate). Finding the sweet spot – often watering every 1–3 days in veg (depending on pot size) and once a day in flower (more often only if the plant is root-bound and drinking fast) – keeps roots oxygenated and microbes active. Tip: Use fabric or air-pruned pots and a well-aerated coco mix; they provide more forgiving oxygen levels if you overwater slightly, and they promote a healthy wet/dry cycle by drying from the sides as well.

• Key Failure Windows (Stage-by-Stage): Early Seedling: high risk of damping off (fungal stem rot) if overwatered and warm – use a light, aerated mix and do not saturate seedlingsgrowweedeasy.com. Veg weeks 2–4: watch for pH issues or Ca/Mg lockout if coco was unbuffered – early signs are pale new growth or interveinal chlorosis (correct with cal-mag rich organics like gypsum, and buffer coco with calcium beforehand)overgrow.com. Pre-Flower: hidden underfeeding often lurks – the plant may look ok in late veg but if the coco/organics are running on fumes, the explosive stretch will reveal deficiencies by week 2 of bloom. Top-dress before flip and consider a fast-acting boost (e.g. guano tea) at early bloom to avoid this. Flower Stretch: the biggest risk period for nutrition lag and heat stress – fast growth can outpace organic release, and HPS heat can crisp tops. If you see paling tops or burning edges in week 2, react quickly with a gentle organic feed or foliar and ensure proper temperature/humidity (VPD ~1.0 kPa). Mid Bloom: Calcium and potassium deficiencies commonly bite in weeks 4–6 as buds are rapidly building – brown spots or weak stems are flags. Ensure your earlier topdress is kicking in by now; if not, use a supplemental organic bloom feed. Also, overcrowded canopies at this stage can lead to mold – start thinning excess foliage and boost airflow now, before buds get too dense. Late Flower: Bud rot becomes enemy #1 – cool, humid conditions or lack of airflow in weeks 7–8+ can rot colas from the inside outgrowweedeasy.comgrowweedeasy.com. Keep humidity <50%, provide ample ventilation, and inspect colas daily. Additionally, watch for “false deficiencies” vs true ones: many organic growers see leaves yellowing (fade) late in bloom – which is normal as the plant pulls stored nutrients – but make sure it’s a uniform fade and not localized issues like only upper leaves (which could indicate a late Cal/Mg issue). Environmental tightening (lower RH, slightly cooler temps) in final weeks helps prevent mold and brings out colors, but avoid drastic changes that stress the plant.

• Mold & Botrytis Management: Wilson F1 produces chunky, dense buds, which while great for yield, are more prone to botrytis (bud rot) if moisture gets trappedmasonicseeds.comasonicseeds.co. Preventative steps: keep flowering humidity around ~50%, dropping to ~45% in the last 10–14 daysmasonicseeds.cogrowweedeasy.com; maintain strong air circulation throughout the canopy (oscillating fans plus an exhaust) so there are no stagnant pocketsgrowweedeasy.com. Proactively prune inner popcorn buds and excess fan leaves around week 3–4 of flower – a moderate defoliation at mid-flower lets light and air penetrate into big colas, which dries them out faster and makes conditions hostile for moldmasonicseeds.cogrowweedeasy.com. Early mold signs usually appear as a single sugar leaf on a bud suddenly wilting or yellowing for no obvious reasongrowweedeasy.com. On closer inspection, you’ll see gray or white fuzz at the base of that leaf inside the cola. The moment you detect this, surgical removal is required: put a bag over that bud, cut it out, and remove it from the grow area immediatelygrowweedeasy.com (spores spread easily, so be careful not to jostle rot-infested buds around your room). After removal, increase exhaust and consider a slight uptick in temperature for a day to lower RH. Highest risk window: the final 2 weeks and the dark period just after lights-off (when RH spikes as temps drop). Running a dehumidifier at lights-off or slowly ramping down temps can prevent those spikes. Some growers also stagger harvest – removing the largest colas a few days early – if those are at risk of rot while smaller buds finish. In essence, mold prevention is about environment: if you maintain <50% RH, plenty of airflow, and avoid misting the buds, you greatly reduce botrytis chancesgrowweedeasy.comgrowweedeasy.com.

• Harvest & Initial Drying: Wilson F1’s optimal harvest window can be identified by pistils and trichomes: look for most pistils turned orange/brown and curling in, and trichomes that are mostly milky white with a touch of amber on the heads (around 10–15% amber for a balanced effect – though each grower may target their preference). Because Wilson is a fast finisher, check early – sometimes at day 45–49 of 12/12 it’s already ripemasonicseeds.co. When ready, try to harvest during a dry period (avoid harvesting right after watering or when ambient humidity is high). Post-chop, drying conditions are critical: aim for around 60°F and 60% RH in a dark space with gentle air exchange for a slow dry of 10–14 daysapp.jointcommerce.com. This slow, controlled dry preserves terpenes and minimizes mold risk. Hang whole plants or large branches if you can (slows the dry); ensure no buds are touching or piled. A small fan indirectly moving air helps prevent wet spots, but don’t blow directly on hanging buds. Failures to avoid: Overdrying too fast (e.g. warm or very low humidity conditions) will drive off aromas and harshen the smoke – for example, rapid drying can shift flavor from fruity to bland or peppery by evaporating monoterpenesapp.jointcommerce.com. If buds do crisp too quickly, you can reintroduce moisture by curing with 58–62% RH packs, but lost terpenes won’t fully come backapp.jointcommerce.com. On the other hand, drying with high RH (>60% for prolonged periods) invites mold during the dry – white fuzzy mold or botrytis can grow on hanging buds if they stay wet internally. If you notice the drying space RH rising into the 70% range, increase airflow or use a dehumidifier to correct it. A common error is jarring or bagging buds before they are fully dry internally – this can stall the dry and create a micro-climate where mold can bloom. Always jar cure only after stems snap or nearly snap, and even then, inspect jarred buds in the first week of cure for any sign of mold or excess moisture (burp jars daily). Overall, treat the drying phase as an extension of the grow – maintaining the right environment until the buds are safely stable will ensure your weeks of work don’t literally rot away after harvest.

Stage Timeline: Optimal Environment & Feeding from Seed to Harvest

Seedling (Days 0–14): Use a small pot or propagation tray with coco coir lightly amended (e.g. 10–20% worm castings for gentle nutrients and beneficial microbes). Keep temperature ~75°F (24°C) and relative humidity ~65–70% to encourage root development (a humid dome can help for the first few days). Lighting: If using an HPS, start it high above (or use a weaker light for seedlings) – target ~200 PPFD so seedlings don’t stretch excessively or overheat. HPS lamps run hot, so maintain ~30 inches distance initially and ensure good ventilation. Watering: Coco should stay moist but not soggy – water with a spray or few milliliters around the seedling, and do not fully saturate the pot at this stage (overwatering is the top seedling killer). If coco was not pre-buffered, consider a very light cal-mag organic supplement now (e.g. a pinch of gypsum in the water or a dilute kelp meal tea) to pre-charge Ca/Mg. Feeding: First 10–14 days, the seed provides most nutrients; you can give a mild compost tea around day 7–10 (e.g. worm casting tea with a drop of fish hydrolysate) to introduce microbes and a gentle N kick. By day 14, seedlings in pure coco may show first signs of hunger (pale cotyledons) – that’s your cue to prepare for veg feeding. Goal: Develop a strong root system and avoid stress – no strong fertilizers, just root inoculants and mild organics.

Early Veg (Weeks 2–4): Transplant to a larger container (e.g. from a solo-cup to 1–3 gallon pot) once the seedling has a couple sets of true leaves. Use buffered coco mix with 10–30% perlite and organic matter (compost, castings) to provide some nutrient reserve. After transplant, environment ~75–78°F and 60–65% RH is ideal – slightly lowering RH from seedling stage to prevent dampness but still high enough for vigorous vegetative growth. Lighting: You can now run the HPS at higher output or closer distance – aim for ~400–600 PPFD in veg. Many growers use a Metal Halide (MH) bulb or an HPS conversion bulb in veg to provide more blue light (reducing stretch and encouraging tight node development), but if HPS-only, keep lamp ~24" away and possibly use a cool tube or good exhaust to control heat. Plants should receive ~18 hours of light. Watering: Increase frequency as roots fill in – likely watering every 1–2 days in coco at this stage. Still avoid runoff; water just enough to fully moisten the pot without excess. Feeding: Around week 3, start top-dressing veg nutrients if your mix isn’t “hot” enough. A common organic regimen is to scratch in a balanced dry amendment (4-4-4 or similar) at 2–3 tsp per gallon of medium, or as per product guidance. This, combined with the organic content in the mix, should sustain the plant for a few weeks. If the plant is pale or growth is slow, supplement with a fish emulsion or kelp (high in N and micronutrients) via watering. Maintain a soil/root-zone pH around 6.0; if using alkaline tap water, use a tiny bit of citric acid or organic pH down to get in range (coco with organics prefers ~5.8–6.5). Training: Begin LST (low stress training) as the plant has 4–6 nodes – gently bend and tie down the main stem to encourage side branching. Wilson F1 is vigorous and can handle topping by week 4 if desired, but give it a few days to recover before the next growth phase. Goal: By end of week 4, you want a well-established root mass, a bushy plant with multiple tops, and a medium that is preloaded with nutrients for the coming stretch.

Late Veg / Pre-Flip (Weeks 5–6): If you plan to flower at ~6 weeks veg, this period is all about transition prep. Pot up to the final container size if you haven’t already (for coco organics, bigger is better – 5 to 7 gallons is common for fully organic grows, whereas pure hydro coco might use 2–3 gal). Ensure the final mix is amended appropriately (many will blend in extra flower-friendly amendments at this stage – e.g. bat guano, bone meal, or a 2-8-4 bloom mix, at about 1/2 strength – so that some P/K is present ahead of time). Environment: Start easing conditions toward bloom-friendly levels: temperature can remain 75–80°F, but you might start lowering humidity gradually into the 50–55% range to reduce risk of mold later and subtly signal the plant that drier times are coming. The HPS can be run at full veg intensity now (~18–24” distance, watching for any leaf heat stress). Training: Top again if needed or continue LST to create an even canopy – Wilson responds well and will quickly redirect growth to side shootsmasonicseeds.co. By the end of week 6 or so, you should have a nicely shaped canopy ready for bloom. Feeding: 3–7 days before flip, apply a pre-flower top-dress – this is critical for organic timing. For example, scratch in a mix of bloom fertilizer (high P/K) and a bit of extra N to carry through stretch: e.g. 2 tbsp per gallon of a bloom dry amendment + 1 tbsp per gal of all-purpose + perhaps some epsom salt or kelp for magnesium and potassium. This gives microbes a head-start on breaking it down. Also consider a compost tea at the end of veg (brewed with worm castings, kelp, maybe a touch of molasses) to boost microbial diversity and nutrient cycling before flowering. If running RO water, ensure a cal-mag source in that top-dress (gypsum, dolomite, etc.) because the plant will need Ca during stretch. Goal: Set the stage for a smooth transition – the plant is healthy, somewhat spread out from training, well-fed but not overfed, and the environment is adjusted to avoid any shock when you change the light cycle.

Flowering Transition / Stretch (Weeks 1–3 of 12/12): Switch lights to 12 hours on, 12 off. HPS lighting is now in its element – be prepared for rapid growth. Wilson F1 will likely double in height (1.5–2× stretch) during these first ~14–21 daysapp.jointcommerce.com. Environment: Target ~75°F day, 70°F night in early bloom, with RH ~50–55% in week 1, dropping to ~50% by week 3. This VPD helps drive transpiration without inviting mold. Critically, manage the HPS heat: maintain good canopy distance (start ~18” and adjust – if you see upward leaf curl, you’re too close/hot). Many growers dim or raise HPS slightly during the stretch if temps get out of range, since plants at this stage can handle slightly lower light better than high heat. Nutrient Demand: This is when your pre-flip topdress should start releasing nutrients. By week 2, if you notice the plant getting light green too quickly, it might mean the organic release is lagging. In that case, use a quick available feed: e.g. a botanical tea or hydrolyzed fish at 1/4 strength to give an immediate N boost, or a liquid bat guano tea for P, etc. Also, ensure Calcium is plentiful now – the cell walls of all that new growth need Ca. Top up with a bit of gypsum or a foliar of cal/mag acetate (if you know how to make water-soluble calcium from eggshells, this is a great time to foliar spray it lightly just after lights out). Defoliation: Around the end of stretch (day 14–21), do a cleanup: remove any big fan leaves that are heavily shading bud sites or blocking airflow in the canopy interior. Wilson’s broad leaves can be thinned moderately to reduce humidity pockets – just avoid over-defoliating to the point of stunting. Watering: The plant is drinking more now, so you may need to water daily or even twice daily in smaller pots. Still try to avoid significant runoff – if runoff happens, you may want to “recycle” some by reapplying the collected leachate (if it’s clean) or at least be aware you’re washing out nutrients and compensate with an extra feed. Keep an eye on topsoil moisture – don’t let the top layer completely dry for long, as that can harm surface-dwelling microbes; a mulch (straw, coco chips, etc.) can help retain moisture and keep microbial activity steady. Goal: Manage a vigorous stretch without nutrient deficits or environmental stress, setting up the plant for maximum bud set as stretch concludes. You should see the first pistils and budlets forming by end of week 2 or 3, with the plant’s frame largely set.

Mid Flower / Bud Formation (Weeks 4–6 of Flower): This is the peak bud-building phase. Environment: Keep temps in the mid-70s°F (around 24°C) daytime; at night you can allow a small drop (to 68–70°F) to encourage resin and color, but avoid >15°F swings. Humidity should be heading downwards: target ~45–50% RH by mid bloom to protect those fattening budsmasonicseeds.cogrowweedeasy.com. Feeding: By week 4, it’s time for the second major bloom top-dress (if following a two-feed plan) – e.g. scratch in another round of bloom fertilizer (guanos, etc.) now so that weeks 5–7 are coveredapp.jointcommerce.com. Focus on phosphorus and potassium sources (bone meal, seabird guano, wood ash or sul-po-mag for K, etc.) and add a bit of magnesium (Epsom or kelp) since coco often runs low on Mg by mid-flower. You generally do not want to add much nitrogen at this point (a small amount of something like fish bone meal is okay, as it has N with the P, but avoid high-N amendments that could keep the plant too lush and delay ripening). Watering: The bulk phase often means the plant still drinks a lot, but as you go into late week 5–6, you might see water intake plateau or drop slightly – a sign the plant is nearing peak. Continue watering as needed to keep medium evenly moist; some growers start to let it dry a tad more between waterings at the end of mid-flower to avoid constantly wet roots as finishing approaches. Support & Airflow: The buds may get heavy – ensure any trellis or stakes are in place to support branches (Wilson’s bud structure is dense and “triangle-shaped” nugsrocketseeds.com). Double-check that fans are reaching all areas – you may need to reposition or add fans as the canopy fills with flowers. Leaf Health: In a well-tuned organic grow, you’ll see leaves remain fairly green through week 5 then gradually lighten. If you observe any specific deficiencies now (e.g. lower leaves turning yellow with green veins = magnesium def., or upper leaves with rusty spots = calcium def.), you can do targeted supplements: E.g. a teaspoon of Epsom salts in a gallon of water for Mg, or a topdress of dolomite for Ca (though that is slow) – foliar sprays of kelp (for Mg and micronutrients) or a calcium solution can bypass soil delays. But be cautious spraying anything directly on buds after week 4 to avoid residue and moisture – if needed, do a very light mist on fans only and ensure fast drying. Goal: By end of week 6, buds are bulked up, rich with milky trichomes, and the plant has used the majority of its added nutrients. Leaves might be starting a uniform fade. No major issues (mold, deficiency, etc.) should be present – if they are, address immediately because late flower is unforgiving (there’s little time left to course-correct).

Late Flower / Ripening (Weeks 7–8+ of Flower): Wilson F1 phenos often finish around week 7 or 8, so this period might be just a final swell and ripening. Environment: Stress the environment (in a good way). Cool the temps slightly if possible – e.g. 70–74°F day, and as low as 65°F at night – to stimulate colors and terpenes (but avoid high humidity that can come with cooler temps). Aim for 40–45% RH in these final 1–2 weeksmasonicseeds.cogrowweedeasy.com; the drier air will help prevent any late-stage mold and also promote resin production. You’ll notice the aroma is very strong now (Wilson is known for pungent tropical fruit smells), so ensure your filters or odor control are working if needed. Feeding: Ideally, no major feeding is done now – the topdress from mid-flower should carry it to harvest. Many organic growers do “water-only” in the final 10–14 days, allowing the plant to consume residual nutrients (akin to a flush without pouring huge volumes of water). You can, however, give microbe food – e.g. a teaspoon of unsulfured molasses in water once a week in late flower can feed soil microbes which in turn make last-minute nutrients available and potentially boost terpene synthesis (molasses provides potassium as well). If the plant still looks very dark green late in week 7 and you want a smoother harvest, continue plain water to encourage a fade. Conversely, if you see a sudden severe deficiency and you still have a week or more, you might do a last mild topdress of an available amendment (for example, if buds haven’t filled out due to P deficit, a high-P guano tea at week 7 might help a bit). Leaf stripping: In the final week, you can remove many of the large fan leaves, especially if they are yellowing – this can make trimming easier and slightly lower the drying time later (less foliage = faster drying). But do this gradually; you never want to remove so much at once that you shock the plant. Dark period before harvest: Some growers give 24–48 hours of darkness before chop to boost resin; this is optional – if you do, ensure RH control during darkness to avoid surprise mold. Goal: Finish strong – the plant should be winding down, with maybe some purple hues on leaves (depending on phenotype and temp), buds extremely sticky and aromatic, and no signs of rot or pests. You’re essentially coasting on the built-up organic nutrition, so avoid adding anything that could taint flavor or overstimulate growth when it should be finishing. Daily trichome checks with a magnifier can tell you when to harvest at your preferred ripeness (many pull at first amber appearance for max THC).

Harvest & Initial Dry (Days 0–10 post-harvest): Harvest day – chop the plant at the base in darkness or just after lights on (when terpenes are highest and plant has not transpired yet). Trim off large fan leaves, but you can leave sugar leaves until after drying (they help slow the dry). Drying environment: Absolutely crucial: aim for about 60% RH and ~60°F with good air exchangeapp.jointcommerce.com. Darkness is essential (light degrades cannabinoids). Hang whole plants or branches – with Wilson’s dense colas, hanging the whole plant can slow drying and prevent the outside from crisping too fast while the inside is wet. Place a hygrometer in the room (and even inside a test bud jar after day 4–5 to gauge internal humidity). After 2–3 days, buds will feel slightly less plump and some small stems will bend not snap. By ~7 days, check thick stems: when they snap or nearly snap, and the small buds feel dry to the touch, you’re ready to cure. If buds are drying too fast (e.g. crunchy at day 4), raise humidity (hang wet towels or reduce exhaust). If drying too slow (still very soft at day 10, or RH staying 70%+), you may need to gently warm the room or increase airflow to avoid mold – bud rot can even strike hanging plants if they stay wet inside. Once optimally dry, manicure the buds (remove remaining sugar leaves) and transfer to jars or sealed bags with ~62% RH. Curing: Burp jars daily for the first 1–2 weeks, then weekly – this lets out any residual moisture and allows flavors to develop. By 4+ weeks cure, Wilson’s jar aroma will be a powerful “fruit salad” of banana, papaya, citrus and funk – a well-earned payoff for your organic HPS grow!

Failure Window Map: Common Symptoms, Causes, and Organic Solutions

Seedling Stage (0–2 weeks):

• Damping Off: Symptom: Seedling stem thins at the base, plant topples over, often with a mushy brown stem. Cause: Fungal pathogen (Pythium, etc.) thriving in overwatered, stagnant conditions – high humidity and lack of airflow enable it. Prevention/Fix: Use sterile or bio-active seedling mix (coco mixed with a bit of compost or Trichoderma inoculant). Water sparingly – keep top of coco just moist, not soaked. Ensure air flow (no stagnant air in dome) and temps ~75°F; avoid cold wet media which fungi lovejungseed.com. Once a seedling dampens off, it’s not savable – remove it and the surrounding medium to prevent spread. Going forward, let seedlings have an occasional gentle breeze and only water with warm (not cold) waterjungseed.comjungseed.com. A natural fungicide like a sprinkle of cinnamon on the surface or chamomile tea waterings can help prevent damping-off organically.

• Leggy/Etoliated Seedling: Symptom: Seedling grows very tall, thin, with long internode on the stem, possibly bending or unable to support itself. Cause: Insufficient light – either HPS lamp is too far away/dim or too much shading/humidity dome filtering light. They stretch “searching” for more light. Fix: Increase light intensity or bring the light closer (carefully – HPS can burn if too close). Aim for ~10,000 lux (100–200 μmol/m²s) at the seedling. If heat is a concern with HPS at proper distance for light, consider switching to a CFL or LED for early seedling stage, or run the HPS only part of the day and off for a few hours to cool. You can also stake the leggy seedling or replant it deeper when transplanting to bury the stretched stem. In the future, start seedlings under a gentle light to prevent stretch from the get-go.

• Yellowing Seedling Leaves: Symptom: Cotyledons (the first round leaves) turn yellow early, or first true leaves pale/yellow. Cause: Could be underfeeding – coco has no nutrients and if no amendment was added, the seedling might be hungry once it uses up seed reserves (especially after day 10). Could also be pH issue – if water is way off (too acidic or alkaline), nutrient uptake is impaired. Fix: If cotyledons yellow after the first week, start giving a dilute organic feed: e.g. compost tea or 0.2 EC equivalent of fish/seaweed. Make sure water pH is roughly in 5.8–6.5 range (coco likes slightly acidic). If you suspect the coco was not buffered and Ca/Mg lockout is occurring, a light watering with cal-mag (organically, calcium acetate from eggshells or a pinch of Epsom salt for Mg) can green them up. Also ensure the seedling isn’t in too large a pot of coco getting overwatered – a big wet volume can cause nutrient stagnation or damping off (leading to yellow, unhappy leaves).

• Slow/Stunted Growth: Symptom: Seedling isn’t growing much; by week 2 it’s still tiny, maybe leaves are a bit purple-ish or dark. Cause: Overwatering is #1 – coco too wet, not enough oxygen for roots, so they stall. Also, cool temperatures (<70°F) or lack of root zone oxygen (no perlite and constantly wet) will slow root function. Possibly excess nutrients if you over-amended the seedling mix (burning tender roots). Fix: Let the medium dry out more before watering; you should see improvement as roots get air. Check temps and raise to 75–78°F if they were colder. If you suspect too hot of a soil (unlikely in pure coco unless you added a lot of fertilizer), you could carefully transplant the seedling into a fresher mix. Using beneficial mycorrhizae at planting can mitigate some stress by boosting root growth.

Early Veg (Weeks 2–4):

• Interveinal Chlorosis (Young Leaves): Symptom: Newer leaves are pale between veins, veins may remain a bit greener; overall light coloration and slow growth. Cause: Iron or Magnesium deficiency often presents this way in coco at high pH, or Calcium deficiency if leaves also have tiny rusty spots. In young plants, this is commonly due to coco’s CEC grabbing Ca and Mg (if unbuffered) and high pH from carbonate-rich water causing iron lockoutovergrow.comicmag.com. Fix: First, ensure the medium pH is in range ~6.0. If using hard tap water, check that pH isn’t drifting too high – consider adding a bit of organic acid or using RO mix. Address the likely nutrient gap: apply a Cal-Mag source (organically, topdress a spoon of dolomite or gypsum and water in with a bit of Epsom salt for Mg). If iron seems suspect (yellowing in newest growth), a dose of seaweed or fish emulsion (which contain micronutrients including iron) can help. Also double-check your coco source – if you see this issue often, buffer your coco before use by soaking in cal-mag solution (even if using organics, an initial buffer with calcium nitrate then thorough rinse is an accepted practice to pre-load Caovergrow.comovergrow.com). Future prevention: incorporate a quality worm casting or compost which naturally contains micronutrients and buffers pH, and don’t let pH of water get above ~7.0 when watering.

• Droopy, Puffy Leaves with Fungus Gnats present: Symptom: Plants look wilted or droopy even when medium is wet, leaves may feel thick or swollen. You notice small black gnats flying around or larva in the topsoil. Cause: Overwatering / poor aeration – coco kept too wet, leading to oxygen deprivation at roots (hence droop)overgrow.com. Fungus gnats thrive in continually moist organic media and indicate the top layer never dries. Overwatering also encourages fungal pathogens. Fix: Allow a longer dry-back between waterings – let the top 1–2 inches of coco dry out. Use bottom-watering for a while (water from tray, let plant drink) so the surface stays drier, discouraging gnats. Add beneficial nematodes or Bt israelensis (e.g. mosquito bits tea) to kill gnat larvae organically. You can lightly cultivate the top inch of coco to fluff it and promote drying (being careful of roots). If possible, mix in more perlite or coarse coco to improve drainage in future transplants. Sticky traps catch adult gnats, breaking the cycle. Once watering habits are corrected, the plant should perk up with leaves praying again.

• Rusty Spots and Leaf Edge Burn in Veg: Symptom: Brown rust-like spots on older leaves, sometimes leaf tips or edges turn brown and curl up. Cause: Likely Calcium deficiency (rust spots) coupled with a bit of nutrient burn or potassium excess (burnt edges). In coco, this often appears if using RO water without Ca supplementation, or if the coco wasn’t buffered – it pulls Ca from your nutrient pool, starving the plantovergrow.com. Can also happen if pH is too low (<5.5) making Ca less available. Fix: Confirm pH in medium (slurry test). If it’s too low, flush lightly with pH 6.5 water to bring it up. Apply organic calcium: topdress a fast-release form like gypsum (calcium sulfate) which is moderately available, or even mix a small amount of calcium carbonate (lime) into water (though it affects pH). For quicker action, foliar feed with an organic Ca solution (some growers use amino-acid chelated Ca or homemade eggshell vinegar extract). To address the tip burn, consider that you might have over-fertilized with a strong organic input or the water is evaporating and leaving salts – check that EC isn’t climbing. If you see burn, back off any high-N or mineral-rich feeds. Typically, a plant showing Ca deficiency in veg is a warning – fix it before bloom where demand will skyrocket. Going forward, use a cal-mag supplement or cal-rich amendments in coco routinely, especially with RO watermasonicseeds.co. Wilson’s genetics can be calcium-hungry, so this is a common issue to nail early.

• Twisted, Curling New Growth (“Taco” leaves or odd shape): Symptom: Top leaves might curl sideways or upward (taco shell shape), growth may be distorted. Cause: Could be micronutrient stress or VPD stress. Tacoing upward is often heat or low humidity (the leaf edges curl up to conserve water). Twisted new growth can indicate slight zinc or boron deficiency (often if pH got too high) or exposure to growth hormone in kelp overdose. Fix: Check your environment – if temps are >82°F and RH <40%, the curl is likely VPD-related; fix by lowering temp or raising humidity to ~60% (in veg). If environment is fine, consider nutrient causes: was a heavy kelp extract used? (too much can cause bizarre growth due to natural PGRs – flush it out with plain water for a bit). If pH was out of range (like watering with 7.5 tap straight), flush with corrected pH water. Micronutrients: a foliar spray of kelp (low dose) or a compost tea can supply trace elements to correct minor zinc/boron issues – new growth should come out normal thereafter. Usually this isn’t a fatal issue; the plant often grows out of it once conditions stabilize.

Late Veg / Pre-Flower:

• “All good then suddenly deficient after flip” (Post-Flip Yellowing): Symptom: Plant looked green and healthy in late veg, but 1–2 weeks after switching to 12/12, many leaves turned pale or yellow, often starting from bottom or overall lightening. Cause: A classic nutrient lag – the plant’s needs jumped in early bloom (especially for N, Mg, and micronutes during stretch), but the organic amendments hadn’t mineralized fast enough. Essentially an underfeeding that only became apparent once the plant began stretching and forming bud sites. Possibly exacerbated by a heavy growth spurt from the HPS light and warmer flower temps, accelerating nutrient uptake beyond what the soil could supply. Fix: As soon as this is noticed, top-dress immediately with a balanced nutrient (don’t wait for further fade). Use something with a bit of N to halt the yellowing and ample P/K to sustain bud formation. Also consider a quick fix like a compost tea or fish emulsion drench to provide immediately available N and micros while the dry amendments break downapp.jointcommerce.com. In future cycles, preemptive feeding is key: top-dress 7–10 days before flip or at flip at the latest, so the plant doesn’t run on empty. Also ensure pot size is sufficient; a root-bound plant will exhaust nutrients quickly and might need extra amendment or a transplant pre-flower.

• Wilting or Leaf Drop after Intense Training: Symptom: Right after topping, super-cropping, or heavy defoliation, the plant looks droopy, some lower leaves may yellow or drop off in days following. Cause: Stress from over-training – if you did a big hack-and-slash (or multiple toppings) just before flowering, the plant’s transpiration and nutrient flow got disturbed. Droop can also come from root disturbance if you transplanted late or watered improperly after training. Fix: Give the plant some TLC: foliar spray with diluted seaweed or aloe vera (these contain salicylic acid and other compounds that reduce stress). Ensure the medium isn’t overwatered (plants use less water right after heavy defoliation due to fewer leaves). Keep lights a bit higher for a day or two after major training to reduce demand on the plant. If a specific branch wilts after super-cropping (snapping stems), it might’ve been too damaged – support it with a stake or consider pruning it off if it’s not recovering. In general, try to limit high-stress training in late veg – spread it out (do topping in mid veg, lollipopping in late veg, etc.) so the plant isn’t shocked all at once. Wilson is resilient, but any plant can stumble if hit with too much at once. The good news: usually within a week of flip, a healthy plant will rebound and explode with new growth.

• Pre-Flower “Nanners” or Herm Signs: Symptom: Just as flowering starts (or right before), you spot a few yellow banana-like structures in a bud site, or a pollen sac forming at a node. Cause: Hermaphroditic expression – could be genetic (some Wilson hybrids have this tendency under stressmasonicseeds.co) or due to a major stress event in veg (light leak, severe pruning, root issues). If it’s right at flip, it might be a genetic intersex trait triggered by the hormonal change to flowering. Fix: Act swiftly – remove the offending bits. If it’s a few isolated “nanners” (which are pollen stamens), you can pluck them out carefully and monitor. If it’s full male sacs on a branch, that branch or the plant may need removal. Double-check your light schedule and dark period – even a small light leak or interrupted dark cycle can induce hermies. Also review if any severe stress happened in the last couple weeks. Sometimes, only one plant will show this – in which case, cull it if it’s early in flower (better to lose one than seed the rest). To prevent: source stable genetics (true Wilson F1 clone or well-selected progeny) and keep the environment consistent. In organics, avoid over-supplementing with products like colloidal silver or STS by accident (those are used to induce fem pollen, so unlikely here). Most Wilson grows do fine, but it’s a heads-up since it’s noted as a possibilitymasonicseeds.comasonicseeds.co.

Stretch / Early Flower (Flowering Weeks 1–3):

• Stretching Too Much (Height Control issues): Symptom: Plants are skyrocketing, getting too close to the light, internodes on new growth are very long (“giraffeing”). Cause: HPS lights lacking blue can cause more stretching; also high temps and/or too low light intensity early in bloom encourages vertical growth. Some Wilson phenos have strong sativa vigor, stretching ~2× or a bit moreapp.jointcommerce.com. Fix: Implement canopy management: Perform super-cropping (pinch and bend pliable stems) on the tallest tops around week 2 before they harden – Wilson’s branches are flexible and can handle thismasonicseeds.co. Tie down or spread out branches if possible. If the HPS was far initially, start bringing it closer (as long as canopy <28°C) to increase light intensity – more light can slow stretch to a degree. Ensure temps are not too high – if >80–82°F, the plant will stretch more and also you risk lanky, weak stems. If you have a metal halide bulb, running it for the first 1–2 weeks of flower can greatly reduce stretch (due to more blue light). Ultimately, topping in late veg can help control final height, but once in stretch, bending is your friend. In extreme cases, you can pinch the stem tops (soft-topping) around week 2 to stop upward growth, but that may reduce yield on that cola. Better to gradually train than do anything overly aggressive at once.

• “Stretch Crash” – Mid-stretch Fading: Symptom: Around week 2 of bloom, just as stretch is peaking, fan leaves start yellowing fast from bottom, maybe some top leaves pale – plant looks like it’s “crashing” nutritionally while still growing upward. Cause: Nutrient drawdown – the rapid biomass increase of stretch drained nitrogen and other mobile nutrients before the organic system could catch up. It’s essentially an acute transient deficiency in mid-stretch (commonly N or Mg) because the pre-flip feed wasn’t enough or available in time. Fix: Apply a fast-acting nutrient ASAP. Good options: fish emulsion (high in N, quick uptake) watered in, plus maybe a teaspoon of Epsom salts for Mg. If you have a brewed compost tea ready, use that to supply a broad spectrum. Also top-dress a bit more of your all-purpose fert to ensure the latter half of stretch has something. The goal is to stop the yellowing from progressing. You might also trim off some of the heavily yellow lower leaves if they’re not going to recover – the plant will then focus on new growth. In future grows, increase the nitrogen in your pre-flip regimen or even continue a mild veg fertilizer into week 1 of flower (many growers do a “transitional feeding” with extra N up to day 10 of 12/12, especially in organic systems, to prevent this exact issue).

• Heat/Light Stress (Leaves Tacoing, Tips Burnt): Symptom: Upper leaves curling up at the edges (taco) or even cupping upwards, sometimes accompanied by browning at leaf tips or margins. Bud development might slow on top colas. Cause: Excess heat or light intensity from the HPS – likely too close or insufficient cooling, causing leaf surface temps to soar. HPS also emits lots of IR which heats the leaf internallyinspire.ag. If humidity is low, the effect is worse (high VPD). Fix: Increase the distance between lamp and canopy (even a few inches can help). Check canopy temperature with an IR thermometer if possible – try to keep leaf temps in mid 70s°F. Boost humidity slightly if it was <40% (to ~50%) to reduce VPD and slow water loss. Ensure fans are blowing between the light and canopy to disperse heat. You can also temporarily dim the ballast if your HPS is dimmable, during the hottest part of day. If only a few top leaves are affected, you could leave them as “sacrifice” leaves (they take the brunt of the light) and ensure the rest are okay – but if you see widespread tacoing, you must adjust environment. In addition, heat and light stress can induce Calcium deficiencies because the plant can’t keep up with Ca transport at high transpiration rates (tips and margins burn due to Ca-related cell collapse)inspire.aginspire.ag. So after correcting the environment, consider giving a bit more Ca via root drench or foliar (when lights are off and leaves cool). Leaves that were badly taco’d won’t flatten out, but new growth should be normal if the issue is resolved quickly.

• Early Bud Rot or Fungus (during stretch): Symptom: Uncommon in stretch phase (before buds form), but you might see powdery mildew (white powder spots) on leaves or a moldy smell developing in dense foliage. Cause: High humidity and poor airflow even before buds form can allow fungal disease to take hold. Powdery mildew, for instance, can start in veg/early flower if RH is high and leaves are overlapping. If actual bud rot is noticed this early, it means an infection took hold on a pre-flower or injury site – extremely high humidity or a pest creating entry could be to blame. Fix: Increase air circulation immediately – separate and thin out any overly bushy areas. Use an organic fungicide safe for early flower: options include neem oil (in veg only, not with flowers), potassium bicarbonate solution, or a biological like Bacillus subtilis or Trichoderma spray that can combat mildew. For powdery mildew, a milk-water spray or sulfur burner (in veg/pre-flower only) can erase it, but once flowering, stick to gentler solutions. If a bud site has botrytis that early, remove it and any surrounding material – then double down on dehumidification. Often, early fungal issues are a sign your environment is off – aim for <60% RH even in stretch and >10°F leaf-to-air temperature difference to keep leaf surfaces dry. As plants get bigger, prune for airflow. Prevention (for next time): consider a biological inoculant (like foliar spraying compost tea or using EM-1) in late veg to occupy leaf surfaces with good microbes, outcompeting pathogens.

Mid Flower / Bulk Phase (Weeks 4–6):

• Mid-Flower “Fade” or Deficiency: Symptom: Around weeks 4–5, fan leaves – especially middle ones – start yellowing or showing nutrient deficiency patterns (could be generalized yellow, or specific like purple stems, red spots, etc.) Cause: If it’s a uniform light fade, it may be the plant beginning to use up nutrients – some strains do start fading in late mid-flower, but Wilson usually holds green until later. Often it’s a sign that the earlier topdress was insufficient or delayed, causing a mid-flower nutrient gap (common culprits: nitrogen if overall yellow, magnesium if yellowing between veins on older leaves, phosphorus if you see purple/red stems and dull olive foliage, potassium if leaf edges yellow/brown). Coco’s lack of nutrient buffer means if the slow-release organics haven’t broken down by now, the plant can run short. Fix: Diagnose which nutrient is most lacking by pattern:

  • If many lower leaves are yellowing and dropping -> give a small dose of N (e.g. topdress a bit of worm castings or a fish emulsion drench).

  • If leaves have interveinal chlorosis -> likely Mg/Fe, so consider a magnesium sulfate watering and possibly a mineral supplement like azomite or kelp for micros.

  • If you suspect P/K (buds not swelling, leaves kinda dark dull then suddenly crisp spots) -> topdress high-P guano and sulfate of potash (organic source of K) or use a liquid like bloom guano tea.Because it’s mid bloom, you don’t want to dump a huge load of N that could delay ripening. Try to correct with a balanced approach (e.g. some all-purpose 4-4-4 plus some extra bloom 2-8-4). Also, foliar feeding can bypass soil delays – a kelp or fish/kelp foliar at week 4 can supply N, K, and micros immediately (avoid foliar after week 5 when buds get stickier, to prevent residues). Prevention: ensure your week 3–4 topdress is adequately dosed and perhaps consider splitting feeds (smaller topdress at week 3 and again at week 5) so there’s no gap.

• Bud Tip Burn / Nutrient Burn: Symptom: The tips of the sugar leaves or even the buds themselves turn brown/burnt at the very end, and you might see leaf tips across the plant looking singed. Cause: Over-fertilization – even organics can cause burn if heavily over-amended. Perhaps the mid-bloom topdress was too rich or you added a powerful guano in excess. In coco, excess nutrients that aren’t used can build up (especially if not much runoff) and cause a spike in EC, burning roots and leaf tips. Fix: In organics, classic flushing is tricky (you don’t want to flush out all microbes), but if burn is widespread, a mild leaching is warranted: water generously with plain, pH-balanced water or a very light molasses solution to help carry salts out, maybe 10–15% runoff to expel the excess. After that, resume only water for a bit and let the plant use what’s in the soil. Check your water source too – if you were using a very hard water, could salt buildup be part of it? Tip burn that is minor (just the very tips) is not too harmful – it often means “back off a bit” on feed. If buds themselves seem burnt on tips, that’s more serious – sometimes called nutrient burn on buds, it can slow their development. Flush as above and consider that some amendments might be “hot” – e.g. blood meal or certain guanos can burn. Stick to recommended doses and err low in future. In general, organic burns are less common than deficiencies in coco, so this usually results from a miscalculation or a concentrated pocket of amendment that the roots hit.

• Calcium Deficiency / Bud Rot in Mid-flower: Symptom: Brown speckled spots on upper leaves, maybe some bud stems snapping or weak. In severe cases, parts of buds might die off (which can then invite botrytis). Cause: Calcium deficiency at peak bud growth – the plant can’t transport enough Ca to support cell walls in rapidly expanding flowers. In coco, this is exacerbated by any of: unbuffered media (coco absorbing Ca), low transpiration (if humidity too high, Ca movement slows), or simply not enough Ca in the organic inputs. Wilson’s dense buds are calcium-hungrymasonicseeds.co; a deficiency weakens cell structure and can also predispose tissue to fungal attack (botrytis often hits calcium-deficient, dying tissue). Fix: Increase calcium availability: topdress a fast-release Ca source like gypsum (which also provides sulfur). Gypsum is relatively soluble for a rock mineral – watering it in will provide some Ca over a week or two. Also add amino-acid calcium or a chelate if you have organic versions (some products like liquid bone meal or CalPhos teas can work). If the deficiency is noticed early enough (week 4), you can correct it and avoid yield loss. If late (week 6), focus on maintaining plant health to finish – foliar feeding small amounts of Ca (avoid spraying buds heavily) can help prevent it from worsening. Ensure your humidity is in check (~50%); if RH was too high, lower it to improve transpiration, which will naturally carry more Ca to the tops. Going forward, load coco with calcium from the start (buffering, gypsum in mix) and consider a calcium-rich topdress before flower (e.g. fish bone meal, gypsum) to meet demand.

• Mid-Flower Mold/Mildew: Symptom: Patches of white “powder” on leaves (powdery mildew), or a single bud turning gray/brown and dying from inside (botrytis). The middle of flowering is when buds get denser, so mold might start here undetected. Cause: High humidity or poor airflow around mid-sized buds. Perhaps a watering event spiked RH at night, or plants are bushy and not enough leaves were removed. Powdery mildew specifically can strike if RH swings and there’s leaf-to-leaf contact with stagnant air. Bud rot can start on an injured or tightly packed bud if moisture stays high. Fix: For powdery mildew: remove affected leaves (carefully, to not spread spores). Use an organic fungicide safe in mid flower – Potassium bicarbonate solution (like 0.5 tsp/Quart) sprayed on leaves will raise surface pH and stop mildew (avoid spraying buds directly if possible, focus on leaves). Also, Lactobacillus serum (from EM or homemade LAB) can be sprayed to biologically fight PM. Increase airflow and perhaps a dehumidifier at lights off – PM often strikes when lights off temp drop causes RH to rise. For bud rot: cut out any rotted bud material immediately with sterile scissors, bag it and toss it. Then inspect all other buds – if one had it, others might too. Often botrytis in mid-flower means conditions are too humid or plants are overcrowded. Thin out some inner growth now (even though it’s late) to save the rest. After removing rot, you might lightly mist surrounding healthy buds with a food-grade hydrogen peroxide 1% solution – it can kill residual spores (again, very light mist and good drying after). Keep RH <50% always and run fans 24/7. Sadly, any bud rot means those flowers won’t recover – focus on preventing spread. Preventatively, some growers use biocontrols like Trichoderma or Serenade (Bacillus subtilis) sprays in early bloom to pre-colonize buds against botrytis – not a fix now, but a note for future cycles.

Late Flower / Ripening (Weeks 7–8+):

• Late Flower Rapid Yellowing vs. Problems: Symptom: Many leaves turning yellow, even ones near buds, in the final 1–2 weeks. The question: is it a natural fade or a sign of something wrong (like root issues or a too-early flush)? Cause: By late flower, a well-managed organic plant often naturally fades – N is used up, and leaves yellow as chlorophyll breaks down (often desirable for smooth smoke). This usually shows as a fairly even yellowing/purpling of larger leaves starting from bottom moving up. However, excessive premature yellowing (e.g. whole plant going lime yellow at week 6, far from harvest) could indicate a nutrient shortage occurred too soon (underfed) or a root zone pH lockout. Also, any brown, necrotic patches on leaves late in flower could signal something like a potassium deficiency or even late-stage fungal infection on leaves (less common). Fix: If it’s just a normal fade in the proper timeframe (last week or so), do nothing – it’s part of the plant’s maturation. You might even encourage a light fade by giving only water. If it seems too early (like full yellow at week 6 on an 8-week strain), double-check pH and root health: did you perhaps over-flush or underwater? Check if the medium is extremely acidic (could happen from microbial activity and no buffer). In soil, one might topdress something, but late in bloom there’s little time – instead, if you’re concerned the plant is too nutrient-deprived in final weeks, you can give a small dose of molasses water or a light topdress of worm castings to supply a last bit of nutrition gently. Ensure the plant stays adequately watered (but not overwatered) – sometimes over-flushing and then letting a plant dry out too much can cause a big die-off (crispy leaves). If some leaves die completely, pluck them to avoid any moldy decay on the plant. In summary: differentiate normal senescence (which is fine) from an ongoing issue. A uniform light fade with healthy-looking buds = okay. Mottled, patchy issues or a very fast crash-out of greenery might warrant a small adjustment or just an earlier harvest if the plant seems to be done.

• Foxtailing / New Growth Spurs: Symptom: Instead of rounding out, some buds shoot out new pale green calyx spires (“foxtails”) late in flower. Buds may look a bit lumpy or airy on the edges. Cause: Can be genetic (some sativa-leaning phenos foxtail naturally), but often heat stress or light stress late in bloom causes it – the plant keeps pushing new growth. If HPS is too close or room too hot in week 7+, foxtails are common. Fix: If foxtails are minor and mostly cosmetic, you might not need to act – some growers even like a bit of foxtailing for aesthetic. But if they’re pronounced, check your temps – late flower should ideally be cooler, not hotter. Also ensure darkness is truly dark – any light leaks can trigger re-veg type growth and foxtails. Unfortunately, once a bud foxtails, that structure remains, but you can mitigate more from forming by harvesting on time and correcting environment. If a cola is very close to the lamp and foxtailing badly, you might selectively harvest that top a few days earlier, giving lower buds more time. Foxtails aren’t mold risks per se, but very extreme foxtailing can produce airy buds. In Wilson F1, it’s not a common complaint, so likely it means something like heat or stress is at play – resolve that and it should stop throwing new pistils.

• End-of-cycle Botrytis: Symptom: Right before harvest, one of the biggest colas has an area where leaves are suddenly dead and upon inspection the bud is brown/grey inside – classic bud rot at harvest time. Cause: As discussed, dense buds + humidity or a late watering that spiked RH can result in final-week botrytis. Sometimes it happens post-rain for outdoor, but indoor it usually means a lapse in environmental control (dehumidifier failure, etc.) or simply an extremely dense cola that never got enough internal airflow. Fix: There’s no saving a rotted bud – cut it out well below the mold line. If harvest is imminent, you may choose to take the whole plant or at least that branch immediately. Be mindful when trimming – moldy buds should be trashed (don’t try to salvage for smoking; at best one might process into an extract after removing all mold, but even that is health-risky). After seeing this, run your drying area at optimal conditions because spores are around – keep harvested buds at 60% RH or a bit less and ensure airflow. Clean the grow area thoroughly with a bleach or peroxide solution after harvest to kill lingering spores. Preventative in future: more aggressive thinning of big colas, use of an oscillating fan blowing across canopy under the lights (to keep top buds dry where heat and humidity can build). Also, some growers harvest in stages – taking the top colas a bit earlier if they’re at risk, allowing lower buds to ripen – this avoids having those huge top colas sit around too long in high humidity situations. Ultimately, late flower bud rot is often the result of earlier conditions, so trace back to what could be improved (humidity control, strain phenos, etc.).

Post-Harvest Dry/Cure Problems:

• Overdrying: Symptom: Buds become overly crispy on the outside in just a few days of drying, or the RH in jars drops below 50% quickly. The smoke may be harsh and terpenes muted (smells “hay-like”). Cause: Drying environment too dry or warm – e.g. <45% RH or >75°F will suck moisture out fastapp.jointcommerce.com. Also, chopping buds into small pieces or manicuring too much can speed drying. Fix: If caught early (buds still salvageable), you can try to re-hydrate slightly: put buds in a sealed container with a 58–62% humidity pack or a piece of clean lettuce peel/orange peel for a few hours (don’t let it touch buds directly). This can bring internal moisture back out. However, lost terpenes can’t be fully recoveredapp.jointcommerce.com, so prevention is key: next time, keep that dry room at 55–60% RH and lower temperature. If buds are slightly overdry, a long cure might mellow harshness a bit, but flavor will be less rich. In severely overdried cases, some terpenes evaporated – you can only improve smoothness by curing, not really get the smell back.

• Mold During Dry/Cure: Symptom: White fuzz or gray mold appears on hanging buds or in jars, often accompanied by a musty smell. In a jar, buds might suddenly feel damp or stick together – opening reveals mold. Cause: High humidity or insufficient airflow in drying or curing. Perhaps buds were jarred too wet (>70% RH internally) or the drying room was >65–70% RH leading to surface molds. Fix: If caught very early (just a whiff of must or a tiny spot), you might salvage by removing all affected parts and quickly drying the rest more. Increase dry room airflow and maybe add gentle heat to drop humidity. If mold is in a jar, take all buds out, inspect each one, cut off anything moldy (discard those pieces far away), and then re-dry the remaining buds on a rack/paper outside of the jar until they reach <60% RH. Consider those buds high-risk – use them first, and don’t give to patients or dispensaries. Once moldy, buds are compromised – health caution: do not smoke moldy weed (risk of lung infection). Use of moldy buds could be possibly extracted via alcohol (as some say ethanol will kill spores), but that’s beyond our scope. To avoid this: never jar before stems snap and if in doubt, keep drying an extra day. Use a hygrometer in your jar – if RH goes above 65%, reopen and dry more.

• “Green” or Chlorophyll Taste After Cure (Not exactly mold, but a dry issue): Symptom: Buds smell grassy or like hay even after a couple weeks in the jar; the smoke is harsh. Cause: Usually either insufficient drying (if buds were jarred too wet, anaerobic fermentation can happen giving hay smell) or fast drying that locked in chlorophyll before a slow cure. Fix: If jarred too wet, you may notice this hay odor – take buds out, dry them a bit more, then resume cure. If already too late and they’re dry but grassy, a longer cure (1-2 months) in glass with periodic burping can help break down remaining chlorophyll and improve smoothness. There are also terpene re-introduction products (or simply storing with an orange peel for a day to impart some citrus aroma) but realistically, properly grown Wilson should have a great smell – grassy notes mean something went slightly wrong in dry/cure. Next time, follow the 60/60/10-day rule and you’ll likely avoid this.

In all these cases, the key is observation – catching problems early (a single leaf or bud hinting at an issue) and then correctly diagnosing cause (environment vs nutrient vs pathogen) leads to the appropriate organic solution. Patience and consistency, rather than quick synthetic fixes, define the organic approach, but the reward is a clean, flavorful harvest of Wilson F1 buds.

 Example of bud rot starting in a dense cola: note the dead leaves in the middle of the bud and gray mold at their base. Careful environmental control (50% RH or below, ample airflow) in late flower prevents this “curse of the big buds.” Remove any moldy bud immediately to save the restgrowweedeasy.comgrowweedeasy.com.

HPS + Coco Grower’s Quick Risk-Checklist

• Coco Pre-Buffering: Always use pre-buffered coco or buffer it yourself with Cal/Mag before planting – unbuffered coco will steal Ca/Mg and stunt your growovergrow.com. Also rinse coco well if it’s not a trusted brand (cheap coco can have excess sodium)overgrow.com.

• Water Quality & pH: Dechlorinate your water (let sit 24h or use filters) to protect microbes. If using RO, add calcium/magnesium via organic sources. Maintain irrigation water ~pH 6.0 – coco has natural 5.8–6.2 pH, but without soil buffers, watering too far out of range can swing root pHthcfarmer.com. Moderate alkalinity in water is helpful to stabilize pH, but too much raises it – test runoff or slurry pH periodically.

• Feeding Strategy: “Feed the soil, not the plant.” Topdress or amend a week in advance of needs (especially before flower onset and mid-bloom)drgreenthumbs.com.au. Rely on slow-release dry amendments supported by periodic teas. Avoid “chasing” deficiencies with heavy hand – use small, regular inputs (e.g. a cup of compost or tablespoon of dry fert every 1–2 weeks) to maintain steady nutrition. Watch for the tell-tale mid-flower fade – that’s your sign to have amended earlier next run.

• No Heavy Runoff in Organics: Unlike salt-nutrient coco grows, do not water to 20% runoff every time – it leaches your organic nutrientsthcfarmer.com. Aim for just enough water to saturate the root zone; if occasional runoff occurs, it’s fine, but don’t routinely flush the medium unless correcting an issue. Save yourself work and nutrients by keeping most of it in the pot!

• Dry-Back and Oxygen: Ensure pots get a healthy dry-back cycle. Coco should be moist, not waterlogged – if it’s still heavy wet by next scheduled watering, delay watering. Remember coco holds lots of air; it’s okay to water daily only when plants are big and drinking. When plants are small in big pots, they may go 3–4+ days. Use pot weight as a guide. Insufficient oxygen at roots (from constant saturation) invites root rot and nutrient lockout symptoms.

• Environment (HPS-specific): Monitor canopy temperature, not just room air. HPS lights radiate heat – ideally keep canopy ~75–78°F (24–26°C) during lights oninspire.ag. If you run higher temps, ensure CO₂ supplementation and higher RH to compensate, but generally, mid-70s°F with 50% RH is a sweet spot for HPS in bloommasonicseeds.co. Use cool-tubes or air-cooled reflectors in small tents to remove lamp heat. Keep a strong oscillating fan below and above the canopy to even out temperature layers. In coco, stable environment helps avoid VPD swings that cause over/under transpiration.

• Humidity & Mold: Invest in a hygrometer and dehumidifier – don’t guess. Keep RH ~50% in flowering (even 45% late). Wilson F1’s dense buds will mold if you let humidity stay >60% for extended periodsgrowweedeasy.com. Increase ventilation at night when RH often spikes. If you see any sign of bud rot, cut it out and reduce RH immediately.

• Plant Training & Spacing: Take advantage of Wilson’s training responsiveness – top and LST to create an even canopy, which in turn lets you keep the HPS light a good distance without burning a few tall tops. A flat canopy also improves light penetration and airflow. Don’t overcrowd plants; give each Wilson enough space (and lollipop the lowers) so that air can flow between colas. Tight spacing + HPS heat + high humidity = powdery mildew and bud rot waiting to happen.

• Pest Management: While not asked explicitly, note that organic coco systems can attract fungus gnats (as mentioned) – use yellow sticky traps as an early warning. Also, coco sometimes comes with springtails or other harmless critters; they’re generally fine. Avoid broad mites or russet mites by quarantining new clones – these microscopic pests cause weird new growth and can ruin a crop (they thrive in high temps). A preventative IPM (integrated pest management) with neem or oils in veg, and predatory mites or bio-sprays in flower if needed, is wise. Healthy organic systems with diverse microbes tend to have better pest resistance than sterile hydro, but vigilance is still required.

• Microbial Health: Use mycorrhizal fungi at transplant and possibly periodic beneficial microbe inoculants (EM, lactobacillus, Trichoderma) – these can suppress pathogens and improve nutrient uptake. However, don’t go overboard with too many products; each addition can upset balance. Pick a core set of microbes and feed them (via molasses, etc.). If you ever have to do a flush or something that might harm microbes, re-inoculate afterward.

• Patience in Diagnosis: When a problem arises, take time to inspect the plant thoroughly and cross-check conditions. Because you can’t “quick-fix” with synthetics, it’s extra important to correctly identify the issue. Use plant cues (leaf color, pattern of damage, timing of occurrence) to differentiate e.g. a Mg deficiency vs heat stress vs root disease. This report’s stage-by-stage guide can help pinpoint likely causes. Once identified, apply the appropriate organic solution (nutrient, environment, or IPM) and give it a few days – organics is a slower response, so avoid panicky multiple interventions which can compound issues.

By minding these checkpoints, you greatly increase your chances of a successful Wilson F1 run under HPS in coco – with robust growth, a fertile living medium, and heavy, top-quality buds free of chemical salts or molds.

Confidence Assessment per Section

• Genetics & Phenotype Behavior: High-Moderate Confidence. (Lineage and general growth traits are well-documented by the breeder and seed sourcesmasonicseeds.comasonicseeds.co. Phenotype variability notes are based on community reports and related strain guides, which are generally consistent but partly anecdotal.)

• HPS-Specific Effects: High Confidence. (Effects of HPS vs other lighting on plant stretch, temperature, and transpiration are backed by horticultural researchinspire.aginspire.ag and widely observed in practice. Recommendations here align with known grower experience under HPS.)

• Coco Chemistry & Root Dynamics: High Confidence. (Cation exchange behavior and need for buffering in coco are well-established scienceovergrow.com. The information on organics in coco comes from experienced growers in forums and articles, showing strong consensus on differences from soildrgreenthumbs.com.au. Oxygen/root considerations are general horticulture knowledge given coco’s physical properties.)

• Water Chemistry: Moderate Confidence. (Broad principles are clear – e.g. RO vs tap differences – and are supported by cultivation guidesmasonicseeds.co. However, local water conditions vary and some recommendations stem from logical best practices (dechlorination, etc.) rather than specific citations, so results may vary slightly.)

• Nutrient Timing & Mineralization: Moderate Confidence. (Timing strategies are drawn from organic cultivation literature and a notable guideline in a strain guideapp.jointcommerce.com, and there is community consensus that organics require anticipation. Still, the exact timing can differ by amendment used and microbial activity, so one must adjust to their context.)

• Dry-Back & Irrigation Strategy: High-Moderate Confidence. (Recommendations here are strongly supported by coco-specific organic growers (e.g. THCFarmer forum advicethcfarmer.com) and the known properties of coco. While every setup differs, the general avoidance of runoff and maintaining moisture is a widely endorsed approach for organic coco, lending confidence to these guidelines.)

• Failure Windows & Symptoms: Moderate Confidence. (These are compiled from a combination of common grower experiences, known plant physiology, and multiple sources like GrowWeedEasy for symptomsgrowweedeasy.comgrowweedeasy.com. They cover expected issues and have a strong basis in typical cannabis cultivation, but each grow can have unique problems. Thus, they should be seen as a reliable map of likely pitfalls, albeit not exhaustive.)

• Mold/Botrytis Risk Management: High Confidence. (Botrytis behavior and prevention are very well-understood in cannabis cultivationgrowweedeasy.comgrowweedeasy.com. The advice given (RH control, airflow, inspection) is standard practice and widely agreed upon, especially for dense cola strains like Wilson. The only variability is phenotype density, but given Wilson’s described bud structure, the risk management is appropriately confident.)

• Harvest & Drying Practices: High Confidence. (Drying techniques and parameters come straight from well-established curing wisdom (the “60/60 rule”)app.jointcommerce.com and are corroborated by sources and veteran growers. Failures like overdry or jar mold are well-documented outcomes of not following these practices. There is strong consensus in the community about these post-harvest guidelines, making these recommendations highly reliable.)

Sources: Key insights were derived from breeder Masonic’s Wilson strain profilemasonicseeds.comasonicseeds.co, cultivation forums (Overgrow, THCFarmer) for organic coco techniquesovergrow.comthcfarmer.com, academic/industry articles on lighting and transpirationinspire.aginspire.ag, and grow guides like GrowWeedEasy for problem diagnosisgrowweedeasy.comgrowweedeasy.com. These sources and community consensus were cross-referenced to ensure a comprehensive and accurate representation of running Wilson F1 in coco with organics under HPS.